Rusty Surfboards team rider, Shayne McIntyre, was recently featured on LiquidSaltMag.com. The interview and photo editorial featuers McIntyre riding the Rusty Surfboards Slayer model out at Middles in Puerto Rico. Here is what Liquid Salt and Shayne had to say...
Shayne McIntyre is a California surfer/producer currently living in Puerto Rico. His television show “On Surfari,” which airs on FuelTV and Nat GeoAdventure, draws a devoted viewership. Shayne can surf just about any board he is given… and he does. We caught up with Shayne to learn more.
What was your life like grow ing up?
Pretty erratic—lots of moving: New York, Africa, Mauritius, Aspen and San Diego. Looking back, my parents accomplished some great things, but didn’t have much of a compass in life and created a seriously dysfunctional family setting. So when I was young, I turned to my dog and toys. When I turned 10, I turned to the sea. Like many who can’t find joy in other aspects of life, surfing and the beach became my world.
When did you get your first surf board?
It was my dad’s old eight foot something Surfboards Hawaii that he had in the garage. It had a great air brush of a peeling wave on the deck, but was pretty delaminated and yellow. I traded it towards a new G&S surf board down in P.B., complete with the cool Damien Hard man “Gorilla Grip” traction pads on front and back. Wish I still had my dad’s board though, but it was symbolic in a way.
What was the feeling you had when you first stood up on a surf board?
I don’t remember my first time standing, but I do remember my first wave I paddled into. It was at a reef called South Bird in La Jolla and I went over the falls, the leash wrapped around my neck and I hit my head on the board coming up for air. I went in after that. I didn’t want to quit; I just knew I had had enough for the day.