April's update isn't quite as cheery as usual. On Thursday of the first week of two back to back ladies surf and yoga retreats I was sliding down Central America's most active cinder cone volcano on a piece of wood at 76km/hr when i bounced, caught my heel, and did two flying rolls, coming to a stop at the bottom with a very messed up left foot and ankle. It was an opportunity to check out the medical care in Nicaragua (clean but not very thorough). They told me my ankle wasn't broken, so I wrapped it up and hopped on one leg through the second retreat - still paddling out (but not standing up), horseback riding, and cheering for the ladies. Now that the ankle swelling has gone down, I'm pretty sure the ankle is not the only problem and I probably have at least one broken bone in my foot. : (
I had a GoPro camera mounted to the nose of my volcano board and actually captured the whole wipeout on film. See attached frame grabs and this link for the video:
I'm out of the water for a few weeks, but I did have some time to put together a few little videos to remember the times when I was able to surf.
Here's an ode to my favorite Rusty Surfboard, the Dwart:
Here's a video about my learn to surf philosophy:
More content coming soon (since unfortunately i'm gonna have too much time on my hands in the next few weeks)
Send healing vibes!