It's my 7th time to Chile. I guess you could say I'm a fan of the cold water Indonesia, as I like to call it. Why do I call it that? Well, its waves are 80% lefts and yes it's cold and chilly. Chile is one the places where I can find every type of wave that there is to surf: slabs, point breaks, beach breaks, reefs, and "almost waves" (i.e. if we could only blow that one rock up it would be rideable). Not only does the variety of waves allure me, but the minimal crowds and consistency of the coastline is also a main draw. Oh yea being a goofy foot and surrounded by endless lefts with practically no one out makes this place a dream situation. Add to that the culture, the friends I have here, the food and Its all good!
I'm based in Pichilemu right now an am staying in my friend Diego Medina's guest cabana with my girlfriend Sheila. It sits on the beach in front of Punta de Lobos, one of Chile's premier big wave spots. It's a left hand point break and can hold waves as big as 7 meters= 25 ft+.
My main purpose here in Chile is to compete in the Quiksilver Ceremonial: Punta De Lobos big wave invitational. We are in the middle of the 2 month waiting period. Event organizers want to wait for a 5-7 meter = 15-25 ft swell. It will be my first time competing at this surf spot so I thought it was a good idea to come down here early and practice at Lobos. I've also been surfing some other amazing waves in the local area.
Diego Medina has been a great host. I've been able to tag along with him and get the inside scoop on where to surf as well as where to eat. I have 31 more days in Chile so I'm sure there will be some adventures to write about along with some cool point of view photos that my girlfriend and I'll be taking.